After an 8-day river cruise down the Danube from Budapest, Hungary to Regensberg, Germany in November. 2022, my wife and I had planned an extra excursion to Prague in the Czech Republic. Somewhat knowledgeable about the city’s significance in Eastern Europe, we couldn’t resist the urge to extend our trip and spend some extra time in this ancient, historical, and beautiful city. We stepped off the cruise ship in Regensburg for a bus trip to the Augustine hotel located in the center of Prague’s Lesser Town district close to the historic Charles Bridge. We decided to splurge on our hotel choice and were glad we did. A beautiful hotel, the Augustine was inspired by the 13th century Augustine monastery, which is interconnected with the hotel and still active, housing four monks. Art everywhere, we could have been living in a museum. A whole day could have been spent exploring the property, but we only had three nights and two full days.
Upon our arrival, we had no time to relax. We had a little over an hour to get ready for a tour covering an important historical World War II event that took place in Prague in 1942. As a WWII history buff, I couldn’t resist this history lesson. Codenamed Operation Anthropoid, the planned attack on Reinhard Heydrich (commander of the Nazi Reich Security Main Office and principal architect of the Holocaust) became the only successful assassination of a senior Nazi official during World War II.
Heydrich had been chief of the Reich Main Security Office (RHSA) since September 1939. in September, 1941 he was stationed in Prague as governor of the Protectorate of Bohemia and Moravia to crush the resistance and manage production quotas of Czech motors and arms for the Reich. Heydrich was a ruthless administrator, particularly in his pursuit of the Czech resistance. Initiated by Frantisek Moravec, head of the Czechoslovak Intelligence Services and approved by the head of the Czech government in exile in Britain, Czechoslovak soldiers in exile (mainly Jozef Gabčík and Jan Kubiš) were chosen to plan and execute the assassination of Heydrich and given commando training by the British Special Operations Executive (SOE). These two accompanied by a wireless and cipher team of three more Czechs were dropped into Czechoslovakia by parachute and made their way to Prague to begin planning the assassination with the help of several families and Czechoslovak resistance organizations.
It took Gabčík and Kubiš six months before they found the right opportunity to strike. With a stroke of good luck, the Anthropoids found out the time and route Heydrich would take from his villa to his office in the Hradčany (Prague) Castle on May 27, 1942. Along with two additional gunman, Gabčík and Kubiš waited in ambush at a tight bend in the road that would require Heydrich’s open-topped armor-plated Mercedes to slow down. As the car approached, Gabčík stepped out and pulled the trigger on his sten gun, but it jammed. The Mercedes stopped and Heydrich and his driver rose to shoot Gabčík. Kubiš, close by, pulled an anti-tank grenade from his briefcase and threw it at the car. It exploded near the rear wheel embedding shrapnel and fibers from the upholstery in Heydrich causing damage to his diaphragm, spleen, and lung. He staggered from the car firing his pistol at Gabčík but soon collapsed. Kubiš escaped on a bicycle. Gabčík got away on a tram after initially eluding and eventually wounding Heydrich’s driver.
The Anthropoids thought they had failed, but Heydrich died on the morning of June 4, 1942 in Bulovka Hospital where it was assumed he died of sepsis (blood poisoning). In revenge and in the attempt to capture the Anthropoids, the Gestapo unleashed a man-hunt and severe reprisal upon the Czechs. Over 10,000 were arrested and at least 1300 were executed. The Anthropoids, in the meantime, had gone into hiding in the crypt under the Cathedral of Sts Cyril and Methodius Greek Orthodox Church in the Old Town of Prague waiting for the underground to evacuate them into the Moravian Mountains and then on to England. But before they could be moved, they were betrayed by a Czech compatriot, Karel Čurda, for a Gestapo bounty. The Gestapo and SS surrounded the church on June 18, 1942. After entering the church by a side door, they were met by a barrage of bullets from the choir loft where Kubiš and other resistance men were hiding. Those in the loft were either killed or died of their wounds in the gun battle. The SS then attempted to lift a flagstone to get into the catacombs where the additional Anthropoids were hidden and were again met with a hail of gunfire. The Gestapo called in the fire brigade to flood the cellar through a small window at the side of the church. In order not to be taken alive, those in the catacombs shot each other one by one with the last of their ammunition until the last man shot himself.
Our Czech tour guide gave us a good overview of the Nazi occupation of Czechoslovakia prior to and during World War II. The Nazis coveted Czechoslovakia for its industrial production and was occupied by the Germans without a fight prior to the war. As a result, the country didn’t suffer the destruction that much of Eastern and Western Europe suffered. On the tour we passed through Old Town Square and visited the church where the Anthropoids were cornered and died. We got to go down into the catacombs which exist as they were back in 1942 with the addition of memorials to the brave Czech resistance fighters who died there that day. They are now regarded as national heroes. On the side of the church, a memorial has been set up by the still bullet-scarred window to the crypt. For those interested, check out the very good 2016 film “Anthropoid” which pops up on Amazon or one of the other streaming services from time to time. It was time for us to get back to the hotel, have dinner and rest up for tomorrow’s full day of exploring this old and beautiful city.
The morning of the following day we were scheduled for a long walking tour through old historical sections of the city - the Prague Castle, Old Town Prague, and the Charles Bridge. We began our hike at the Prague Castle arriving at the main gate early on an overcast day. Security was present as this is arguably the most cherished site in the Czech Republic. Beating the crowds, we walked through the main entrance shortly after the posting of the ceremonial guard - the special forces looking guy is the one with the real bullets. The Castle is thought to have originally been founded in the 9th century. According to the Guinness Book of World Records, Prague Castle is the largest castle complex in the world occupying an area of almost 70,000 square meters. Over the centuries, the castle has a rich history, being the seat of power for kings of Bohemia, Holy Roman emperors, and presidents of Czechoslovakia. The Habsburg Dynasty made major contributions to the castle from the 16th to the 18th century. As we have seen earlier, during Nazi occupation, the castle became headquarters of Reinhard Heydrich. After the liberation and a coup in 1948, the Soviet-backed Communist Party of Czechoslovakia housed their offices in the castle. When Czechoslovakia split in 1993 into the Czech Republic and Slovakia, the castle became the seat of the Czech Republic Head of State.
We could have spent multiple days in the castle and not seen it all. Unfortunately, we were only able to spend a few hours there which was spent on being mesmerized by the wide variety of architectural styles that exist on the castle grounds. The castle consists of palaces and ecclesiastical buildings of a variety of architectural styles, from the remains of Romanesque-style buildings from the 10th century through Gothic modifications of the 14th century. The castle has undergone many repairs and reconstructions. St. George’s Basilica, originally founded in 920, is the oldest surviving church building within the Prague Castle. The building is one of the oldest churches in Prague built in the Romanesque style. The two towers in the background were added in the 12th century - the Baroque facade dates from the 17th century. The St. Vitus Cathedral is a prominent example of Gothic architecture. Construction of the current cathedral began in 1344, but not fully completed until 1929. Roman Catholic, this cathedral is the seat of the Archbishop of Prague. A cathedral vault (not open to the general public) safeguards the crown jewels of Bohemia. The Matthias Gate was originally freestanding, and only later in the 18th century incorporated into the west wall of the castle. The arch is the earliest Baroque structure in Bohemia. Built in 1614, the gate was named after Emperor Matthias. The inscription written in the gable lists the emperor’s titles - there are also symbols of the countries ruled by Matthias.
It’s is too bad we were unable to enter St. Vitus Cathedral at the time we visited the castle - it is said to be beautiful inside with it’s long history of architectural additions over the centuries. We did have time to circle the cathedral and view some of its artistic details up close. Gargoyles surrounding facades of the building function as water drains. Added by many different sculptors, they were also thought to scare away evil demons, as it was believed the devil didn’t like to look at his own image. As with many ancient cathedrals in Europe, scaffolding indicates ongoing repair necessary to keep the structures in functional condition. It was time to continue on the walking tour, leave the castle, and most important find a bathroom for us older folks. Back on the bus and across the river.
It was on to Wenceslas Square in the heart of New Town, a misleading name because Charles IV laid out the area in 1348. On the Old Town side of the river that divides the central section of the city, this square is a major commercial area for shopping, entertainment, and nightlife. It is less a square than a boulevard, with a rectangular shape of 750 meters long. Off the bus, we started our walk near the neoclassical Czech National Museum and headed northwest toward the border of New Town and Old Town. Originally a horse market, many historical events occurred in Wenceslas Square. It has been a traditional setting for demonstrations, celebrations, and public gatherings. In the 20th century, the square was the site of the 1938 May Crisis, massive demonstrations against Nazi Germany’s demands for the Sudentenland and French and British appeasement policies. After the occupation, the Nazis used the square for mass demonstrations. After World War II, during the Prague Uprising in 1945, buildings near the National Museum were destroyed.
Wenceslas Square
Walking the length of Wenceslas Square, we arrived at Old Town Square which is the original center of Prague. I was immediately captivated by the beautiful and famous Astronomical Clock (the Orloj) situated on the Old Town City Hall which was built in the 14th century. The Astronomical Clock, first installed in 1410, is the third-oldest in the world and the oldest astronomical clock still in operation. The background of the astronomical dial represents the standing Earth and Sky. Surrounding it are four moving components: the zodiacal ring, an outer rotating ring, and icon representing the Sun, and an icon representing the Moon. Catholic saints stand on either side of the clock. We stayed in the square for the hourly “Walk of the Apostles”, an hourly show of moving sculptures striking the time. The skeleton figure represents Death. The lower calendar dial was added around 1490. The Orloj has been repaired many times over the centuries.
The Orloj
Old Town Square is surrounded with houses that are mostly of medieval origin. Mainly Baroque facades adorned with colored house symbols that give the houses their names - such as the House at the Blue Goose with its blue and yellow plasterwork. The most significant square in historical Prague, the square is dominated by not only the Old Town City Hall, but numerous other landmarks such as the Church of Our Lady before Týn, the Rococo Kinský Palace, the Gothic House at the Stone Bell, and the monument to Jan Hus. In the pavement of the square are memorial stones marking the execution of 27 Czech lords in 1621, and the Prague meridian. The Gothic Church of Our Lady before Týn has been the main church of this part of the city since the 14th century. Its two towers are 80 meters high, with each tower topped by eight smaller spires in two layers of four. So much history and so much to see - whoops, time for another restroom break.
After the break, it was time to head toward the historic Charles Bridge and cross the Vitava River back into Lesser Town (Malá Strana). Bridge construction started in 1357 (finished in the early 15th century) under King Charles IV, replacing the old Judith Bridge that had been badly damaged by a flood in 1342. Originally called the Stone or Prague Bridge, it has been referred to as the Charles Bridge since 1870. The only means of crossing the Vitava River until 1841, it was important in connecting the Prague Castle to the city’s Old Town section. It also helped establish Prague as an important land trade route between Eastern and Western Europe. Protected by bridge towers on both ends, the bridge measures 516 meters long and is decorated with 30 baroque-style statues and statuaries that line the balustrade along the bridge. The Charles Bridge was built as a Gothic-style bow bridge with 16 arches shielded by ice guards. The statues and statuaries (depicting saints) were erected between 1683 and 1714. All have since been replaced by replicas.
Over the course of our limited time in Prague we crossed back and forth over this walking bridge many times during day and night. Probably the most travelled tourist route in Prague, it provided great views of both sides of the river and interesting people watching. During the day, the bridge was lined with artists and vendors of tourist stuff. Want-to-be models were all dressed up, looking out of place posing for photos with the city in the background. Young people with with their iphone set up on a tripod, filming themselves on video, made-up and acting weird, I guess, to increase their following on Tiktok or YouTube. Is there revenue involved in this behavior? Maybe these idiot videos are paying for their trip to Prague - who knew!
As we crossed the bridge this day, we also took the stairs down to Kampa Island, below the bridge close to the Lesser Town side of the bridge. We would come back to this location when we were out on our own. Not as many tourists walk down the stairs to the area below the bridge. Na Kampe is the main avenue on the island and a great place to relax. Lined with pastel colored houses in the Baroque style, there are no shops, but restaurants and cafes with outdoor seating under shady trees. Anyway, it was time to return to the hotel as we were scheduled for a “Food of Prague” tour later that day.
As we learned more than once, the Czech Republic is a beer country. The Czechs are particularly proud of their own Pilsner Urquell, the world’s first pale lager, originally brewed in 1842. It was also claimed, by a couple of the guides, that this beer also has medicinal properties. I’m not sure about that, but this was an added incentive to drink more beer - Na Zdravi (to your health). Only two couples signed up for Food Tour, so we had the undivided attention of the guide. We were bused to three locations. Appetizer sandwiches, a Duck dinner, and my favorite location, a pastry cafe/coffee shop. That chocolate cake and Latte Macchiato really did it for me. I could eat my way through Europe at the multitude of pastry shops and die a happy man, probably of obesity. Maybe I should’t go to Europe very often. Back at the Augustine, we couldn’t sit still for very long - we were only here for one more day. We went for a night walk and strolled through Lesser Town, a beautiful area with a very active night life. It was a fitting end to an active day - a full moon was out, the night clear, in a very romantic setting. One more day in this beautiful city - tomorrow we are on our own.
On our final day, we spent most of our time exploring Lesser Town and the area around and underneath the Charles Bridge. We were lucky enough to get a sunny day. Being early November, we had seen numerous chilly and overcast days on this trip to Europe. There was much to see - shops included sweets to ceramics and everything in between. Off the tourist beaten path - one small shop in particular featured exquisite carved wooden one-of-a-kind marionettes. Our oldest son, at a young age, once said to me on vacation, “Dad, I don’t like sightseeing. All you do is see things.” Well, I’ve got to tell you, this beautiful city could change anyone’s opinion. This city is a feast for the eyes. Too bad there was much more than we could see in two days.
Unfortunately, we were scheduled to get picked up at the hotel for transport to the airport at 2:00 AM for our trip back to the U.S. Before trying to get some rest before our flight, we decided to take one last walk on the Charles Bridge. From there, you can view both sides of the city lit up after dark. At the Old Town side of the bridge in Křížovnické square, hung a banner over the exterior of the St. Salvator Church expressing an unambiguous political view regarding the ongoing Russian invasion of the Ukraine. The St. Salvator is a Roman Catholic church which is part of the Klementinum that houses the national library of the Czech Republic. The Czech’s have historically had their issues over the centuries sandwiched between Russia and Western Europe - most recently in the 20th century, before, during, and after World War II. East and West are still competing for their sympathies. Politically, they must be careful. It was striking to see this banner in a very prominent location viewable to all who crossed the Charles Bridge.
St. Salvator Church
Back at the Augustin, it’s time to rest and pack for the trip home. Starting in Budapest, sailing down the Danube to Regensberg, visiting Vienna, Krems, and Passau in between, it’s been a wonderful and educational excursion. The side-trip to Prague was icing on the cake - something we won’t forget.